Dining | Charlotte's VVeb

Top 10 Things To Do In Belgrade

16/08/201023/10/2016 by Charlotte J

Searching for a cheap city break this year proved somewhat elusive, even in Eastern Europe. However, on in-depth investigation a three-night/four-day break in Belgrade still seemed to be offering a veritable bargain with direct flights and hotel accommodation costing just £500 for two people. So a few weeks ago, I boarded a plane from Heathrow Terminal 5 and set off to explore yet another Balkan country. Belgrade is a great city, with tons of cultural and gastronomic offerings. Yet, it is actually quite small in comparison to cities such as St Petersburg, even London. This means that you can easily walk around it without needing to pay for transport. Not that transport costs much – the bus from the airport charges just 80 dinar for a ticket into the city centre (that’s less than £1!)

So what is there to do? So many people were shocked when I said I was visiting Belgrade for a holiday. They seemed to be under the illusion that it would still be war-torn, and that it would be a place filled with oppressive buildings and a depressing vibe. This is not the case at all! Of course there is poverty, but there is poverty in Britain and many other, so-called advanced, western countries. There were a few domineering buildings built during the Communist era but many of the buildings were typically Austro-Hungarian in design. I think too many people forget that Serbia has a rich cultural history; this country was not formed and built solely in the Yugoslav period, it has taken centuries to compile this, albeit complicated, land, people and culture.

Here is my top 10 list of everything I think you should do when you visit Belgrade:

1) On arrival, take the bus from the airport into the city centre – it costs less than £1 though be prepared with change for the bus driver! There’s a shuttle bus every hour but I’d rather opt for the local No. 71 any day, of which they arrive on, and at, half-past the hour. After passing through customs, simply turn left and go up the escalator. Continue walking straight on (into domestic departures) until you reach the end of the building. The bus stops just outside the final, automatic door, on your right and takes about 30 minutes into the city centre, near Trg Republik.

2) Spend half a day wandering around the Kalmegdan Tvrdjava or Fortress. If you love history then this is the place to head. It really does illustrate the regions military might over the last 2,000 years. There are turrets, towers, bridges, museums in abundance for you to explore. However, even if history, particularly military history, isn’t your thing, the fortress itself offers some spectacular views across the Danube and Sava rivers and out into the surrounding countryside. There are also temporary exhibitions in the grounds – at the moment there is an art exhibition illustrating how Russia is viewed by non-Russians.

3) Stroll along Knez Mihailova – the city’s main shopping street. You’d be mistaken for thinking that the latest fashion trends have not hit Serbia. There are designer and fantastic high street offerings in abundance. Time it right and visit during the sales because there really are some fabulous bargains to be had! Plus, this street is just overflowing with beautiful buildings, so make sure you take in the gorgeous facades which date back to the zenith of the Austro-Hungarian influence in the region.

4) Travel back in time at Konak Kneginje Ljubice (Princess Ljubica’s House). Situated a few minutes on foot from the city centre this surprisingly large house whisks you back to the Ottoman Empire. The 19th century mansion was home to Princess Ljubica, wife of Miloš Obrenović and her sons. It was converted into a museum and houses ornaments, furniture, books, clothes, portraits, landscapes, glasses, medals, and so much more. The design of the house is particularly impressive, with several large rooms built for the sole purpose of conversation. The grand hallways are most spectacular.

5) Just a few metres down the road from Knoak Kneginje Ljubice stands the Saborna Crkva Sv Arhangela, Belgrades ornate Orthodox Cathedral or Holy Archangel Michael Church. The facade, with its glistening golden icons is visually stunning. Inside the walls are adorned with gold, chandeliers hang from the ceiling and locals pray to, touch and kiss the icons. This is quite a different experience from a Catholic or Protestant church. Believers are much more interactive with their icons and God. It really is interesting to watch, even if not particularly taken with religion.

6) Take some time out at Ruski Car (Russian Tsar). This traditional kafana was originally called Zagreb, however, after the civil war during the 1990s, it was re-named and re-decorated. On the walls hang portraits of the Tsars and Tsarinas dating back to Ivan the Terrible. A grand piano sits in one corner and chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The menu is vast but it is the cake counter which is not to be missed. Order some tea čaj (with rum if you desire) and my favourite borovnica torta which is a blueberry tart with hazelnut cream and chocolate. The decor and the food are the ultimate in decadence!

7) If you’re looking for a more substantial meal, be it of local cuisine (čevapčiči, burek, sarma, gibanica etc.), or something a little more international (pizza, pasta etc.) then visit Skadarska ulica. This is a very pretty area of the city, with one main cobbled street, lined with restaurants. It’s not too pricey either so you can enjoy some great food and some house wine without breaking the bank. It can get pretty busy here in the evenings and it always has a great atmosphere.

8) If you are like me and love food and culture then supermarkets and markets are not to be missed. There is a great market, Kalenic Pijaca, where locals sell their home-grown produce – arguably the best fruit and vegetables you’ll see in Europe – as well as quirky souvenirs, old books, communist memorabilia etc. Go on Friday or Saturday when it is at its most bustling. As always with such places, do beware pickpockets.

9) A little further out of town is Sveti Sava (St Sava’s Church). Much like Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the cathedral remains unfinished. Yet its sheer size is impressive, as are the icons on its facade. The construction of the building began at the end of the 19th century. The original marble work is incredible. Unfortunately, most recently the builders have opted for concrete. Nevertheless, the scale of the project is something to be marvelled at.

10) In the same direction (walkable but for those who would prefer to get the bus, take trolleybus 40 or 41 both of which stop by the rather imposing and grand post office, near the parliament building) is the Kuva Cveca – Tito Memorial Complex or House of Flowers. The complex has three museums: a museum of artefacts (interesting for those who enjoy social and cultural history), the dictator’s mausoleum which also displays presidential rooms and a collection of batons used in the Presidential Day ceremonies, and a museum of diplomatic donations which houses gifts to Tito from the people of Yugoslavia and heads of state from other, generally sympathetic to a form of communism, nations. The mausoleum is surprisingly airy and boasts spectacular views across the city.

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The Island – The Floating Dining Room at Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg

15/07/201022/10/2016 by Charlotte J

For those seeking rest as well as those who are romantics, a private refuge of a very special kind is awaiting them this summer in form of a green island at The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg. Floating in the inner harbor of the Mittelland canal, The Island can be booked as a one-of-a-kind destination for an outing for two to four persons from June to September. Delicately arranged food and champagne put a perfect finish to the excursion. The island arrangements cost from 120 euros to 395 Euros for each person.

The crossing to the floating island itself is an adventure. On board a nostalgic mahogany motorboat made by the traditional Swiss boat builder Pedrazzini, hailing from the 1940s, island guests are greeted by their personal skipper with a glass of champagne. The boat casts off from the hotel’s own pier at the floating outside pool of The Ritz-Carlton. From there, an expedition trip commences that opens up completely new vistas on the buildings along the inner harbor for the passengers. The skipper, meanwhile, explains a few of the intriguing factual details on both the park landscape of the Autostadt and the impressive backdrop of the landmarked VW power station.

After a round tour of the Autostadt, the skipper pilots the boat toward the actual goal in the inner harbor: the largest of the four artificial islands, measuring 13 x 13 meters. On the green float with a surface of more than 160 square meters, three willows arch over a wooden terrace at ground level, furnishing ample shade even on sunny days. Being solidly fixed in the inner harbor, the island hardly moves and is eminently suited for safely stepping on it and spending some time there. Upon the boat’s arrival at the island, a butler receives the guests and places them at a stylishly set teakwood table. There is a choice of four different arrangements for the individual menu depending on the time of day. Two champagne breakfasts are offered for a relaxing morning break—one can pick breakfast either with or without caviar. The Island Tea arrangement is perfect for a private afternoon tea, letting no wish go unfulfilled, with premium loose leaf teas and champagne, freshly baked scones, savory delicacies and the finest patisserie.

The Riviera Dinner rounds off the island experience to perfection. With a vista on the brightly illuminated Autostadt and The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg, in the evening, the sunset can be thoroughly enjoyed while being served an exclusive three-course dinner of select seafood such as lobster, mussels and oysters, as well as a pitcher of premium champagne.

With the floating island group, a new staging evolved as part of the Autostadt’s Four Season concept, connecting nature in the park with technology and culture in an artistic fashion. Each island is planted with one of four tree species each: alder, willow, water chestnut and pine; this way, the greenery of the park continues and is extended to the water. Connected to the foundation at the bottom of the inner harbor, the three smaller island plateaus, measuring 7 x 7 meters each, are allowed to drift freely and move with the rhythm of the wind within a radius of around twenty meters. In conjunction with the larger island, a picture of living movement emerges, which integrates the cuisine of The Ritz-Carlton by means of the green dining room.

Reservations for all island arrangements are accepted by telephone or email: Tel +49 5361 607091 ; email ccr.wolfsburg@ritzcarlton.com

About The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg

The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg has 174 rooms and suites and is located in the centre of Autostadt, the world’s first custom-designed celebration of automotive innovation encompassing architectural originality, scientific advancement, artistic inspiration and lifestyle aspiration. With its impressive open circle architecture, The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg has won numerous awards. It offers nine conference rooms, the restaurants Aqua – honored with three Michelin Stars – The Grill, Hafenterrasse and the Newman’s Bar as well as the Kraftwerk spa with its floating open air pool. More than six hundred works of art, with a focus on photography, shape the ambience of the hotel, as do the modern-classic furnishings by renowned French interior designer Andrée Putman. The hotel is just an hour from Berlin or Hamburg by ICE high-speed train. Additional information and reservations may be obtained by calling +49-5361-607000, toll-free within the USA or Canada at (800) 241 3333, toll-free from the UK on 0800 234 000, or at www.ritzcarlton.com/wolfsburg.

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Cosmo Hotel Berlin Mitte – New Exec Chef

02/07/201022/10/2016 by Charlotte J

When taste, scent and philosophy come together in the kitchen the results are sure to be interesting. Ottmar Pohl, the face behind the term ‘aroma cuisine’, is heading up the restaurant at COSMO Hotel Berlin Mitte. Executive Chef Pohl is famed for serving his guests out-of-the-ordinary and unique taste sensations using regional and Mediterranean herbs. By heating the rare and wild herbs in fragrant oils, Pohl releases their natural flavours. These unique aromas are used to dress organic meats and products which are sourced locally. The result is perfectly balanced dishes which are also kind to the environment.

The design of the COSMO Restaurant is elegant and timeless. Clear shapes and warm colours create an informal and casual atmosphere, whilst ceiling-high windows open the view to the adjacent park. Nik Schweiger, the lighting designer, has constructed bespoke oversized ceiling-sculptures which provide soft lighting. A highlight of the space is the open kitchen where guests can watch Ottmar Pohl create his innovative aroma cuisine dishes, including ‘Brook trout, rhubarb pepper vegetables and sweet cicely’ and ‘Baltic Sea wild salmon with popcorn and carrot-anise dumplings’. The 34-year-old chef has previously worked for the three-Michelin star hotel restaurant ‘Traube Tonbach’ in southern Germany and at the renowned restaurant ‘La Societé’ in Cologne.

Passionate about ethical sourcing and minimising the carbon footprint of his kitchen, Pohl shops locally and regularly visits spice alchemist Ingo Holland, owner of the Old Spice Office in Bavaria. He has also studied philosophy, is a self-confessed ‘nature freak’ and is a modern literature fan.

The COSMO Hotel Berlin Mitte is characterised by an individual and urban style. Located in the heart of Mitte between Alexanderplatz and Friedrichstraße, the hotel provides an attentive and yet relaxed service experience. Employees serve as an advisor, guide and door opener to the hippest shops, bars and clubs of the city. Rooms feature unspoilt views of Berlin and minimalistic design. Soft spice colours vary in tone from room to room and create a feeling of comfort, whilst a changeable lighting system and sleek furniture reflect pure sophistication. The contrast between relaxed and refined, light and dark, opaque and solid, soft curves and defined lines, makes the COSMO Hotel Berlin Mitte and Ottmar Pohl’s restaurant one of the top addresses in the city.

To make a reservation visit www.designhotels.com/cosmo

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Eat of the Week: Mimino Georgian Restaurant in London

09/12/200918/10/2016 by Charlotte J

Georgian food is a real favourite in Russia and across Eastern Europe in a similar way that the British are fond of a good Indian curry. In much the same way, Georgian cuisine provides some vital flavours and spice sometimes missing from East European cuisine. So, when I noticed a Georgian restaurant in Kensington, just minutes from where I live I knew I had to visit it. My meal at Ket (also a Georgian restaurnt) in St Petersburg was by far one of my favourites during my stay there, and if I was to eat a meal half as good in Mimino as served in Ket, I would be a happy customer indeed.

Located on High Street Kensington, with its entrance lying on Allen Street the restaurant has a relatively basic facade. However, a staircase leads diners down into a basement which is anything but basic. On arrival the staff are helpful and friendly (and not simply because I somehow managed to slip off the final step and literally fall into the arms of a waiter). The atmosphere is, as to be expected, lively, with many Russians and other East European ethnicities enjoying a good night out. While the decor is dramatic and visitors cannot fail to be shocked by the large round table with giant, wooden, carved chairs fit for a feast in a forest.

The menu is not vast but contains every traditional Georgian favourite and is sure to keep every diner going long into the night, if not the next day! The starters are simply incredible and lead diners on a veritable culinary adventure. Warm Lobio (red beans with walnuts and spices), Sulguni cheese (served with spring onions, radish and herbs) and Imeruli Khachapuri (flat bread stuffed with special cheese) provide the ideal way to begin a dining expedition. As these dishes are so tasty, not to mention particularly generous in size and rich in flavour, diners must be careful to leave room for their main course! It is not easy, trust me!

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The World’s Only Truly Sustainable Caviar

23/09/200918/10/2016 by Charlotte J

Mottra caviar is new to the UK and is the world’s only truly sustainable caviar. This is bang on trend with us being encouraged to choose more ethical and sustainable options, and since the release of film The End of the Line (The Inconvenient Truth of the fish world), our focus has been firmly on the oceans.

Last year, Mottra ‘sturgeon-friendly caviar’ was awarded the CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) certification. Priding itself on its eco-credentials Mottra is both ecologically and gastronomically gratifying.

Even in today’s economic climate, people want to enjoy such delicacies as caviar, but maybe now more than ever, they want to know that the process used is sustainable and that the sturgeon are being looked after. Mottra is your eco-luxury ‘caviar with a conscience’.

Discerning caviar lovers will always have suffered from the knowledge that wild breeding sturgeon were killed to provide this world renowned delicacy. Mottra has solved this dilemma with the use of modern technology and special techniques that encourage caviar production, while putting the sturgeon’s welfare first. Once the sturgeon is about five years of age the caviar gets gently massaged out of the fish – a process also known as ‘stripping’. The fish is then put back into the perfect conditions of the Mottra pools, where it continues to grow and starts the next year’s process of caviar production.